Van Cleef & Arpels' Alhambra: Revitalizing a Timeless Classic
How does a luxury jewelry brand refresh a cornerstone collection that's integral to its success? For Van Cleef & Arpels and their iconic Alhambra fine jewelry line, the answer lies in subtle yet transformative innovations. This month, the French jewelry house introduces new convertible pieces that offer versatility in wearability.
The first is a long Magic Alhambra necklace featuring an attachment that can be used as an additional necklace layer or a standalone bracelet. The second is a Vintage Alhambra-style ring with a reversible head, available in either rose gold and gray mother of pearl or white gold and chalcedony with diamonds. Wearers can flip the head to display either side, catering to their mood.
This shape-shifting design philosophy is deeply rooted in Van Cleef & Arpels' jewelry heritage, dating back to the mid-20th century. It's exemplified by the brand's Zip necklace, commissioned by Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor, in 1938. Initially produced in 1951, the Zip necklace remains a hallmark of high jewelry, allowing the wearer to open and close it around the neck like a jacket zipper.
The Alhambra collection encompasses rings, bracelets, watches, and necklaces, all adorned with four-leaf clover motifs outlined in tiny gold beads. These clover shapes can be crafted from semi-precious stones like malachite and carnelian or carved from gold or mother of pearl. Given the collection's immense popularity and its central role in the Parisian jewelry house's success, I had the opportunity to converse with CEO Catherine Rénier about the process of making changes and additions.
How do you keep a well-known line like Alhambra fresh and relevant?
Alhambra's origins date back to 1968, and its symbolism of luck and a positive outlook on life has been integral to the brand's identity since its inception. The new collection introduces alternating motif sizes, building upon the Magic Alhambra concept introduced in 2006, but this time incorporating the brand's signature transformability. A long necklace can be converted into a shorter one or a bracelet, marking the first time this design element has been integrated into the Alhambra collection.
Even after years with the brand and a deep appreciation for the collection, the introduction of new colors or stones in Alhambra always feels like a new collection. Each iteration brings a unique identity.
The process of selecting stones involves a 'high council' of stone experts. The primary considerations are the quality and availability of the stones. Sometimes, the brand launches limited-quantity stones despite their scarcity, adding to the collection's identity and narrative. For instance, turquoise and lapis lazuli have been part of the Alhambra collection for a long time but in small quantities due to limited supply.
What percentage of your fine jewelry business does the Alhambra collection represent?
I cannot disclose specific numbers. However, it's clear that Alhambra is an iconic collection for the brand. Beyond the sales figures, it has significantly contributed to building brand awareness and identity among a broad clientele. Since its inception, Alhambra has been a consistent signature, thanks to its distinctive style, color variations, and ongoing renewal.
Would you consider expanding into leather goods featuring Alhambra motifs or exploring other categories, similar to Bulgari's snake-shaped bag clasps?
Van Cleef & Arpels has previously undertaken such projects, but the brand prefers to stay in its comfort zone. As a jewelry house with a century-long history, the brand believes that its best expression lies within the realm of jewelry and watches. There's no point in venturing into areas where craftsmanship wouldn't be enhanced.
How important is it for you to expand the fine jewelry business beyond the Alhambra collection?
The importance of expanding the fine jewelry business beyond Alhambra remains consistent. Van Cleef & Arpels has always been creative in its expression, consistently introducing new symbols and reinterpretations of its heritage. This approach inspires and motivates artisans. This year, the brand launched a new collection called Flowerlace, featuring gold flowers in novel shapes. The goal is to maintain a constant flow of inspiration, not only in high jewelry but also in fine jewelry, which fuels the brand's creative endeavors.
